Last week, the curtain went up on Ever restaurant, Harbour Walk, Oranjestad, when a handful of friends and fans of both Chef Ever and Chef Teddy, congregated to soak in the ambiance and sample the food.
Ever restaurant sits shoulder to shoulder with Lima Bistro, only it is invisible. The entrance is hidden behind a picture gallery wall, and as the door glides open, you find yourself immersed in an intimate space, with beautiful woodwork and colorful paintings, against midnight blue walls — a cooking-studio where Chef Ever and his brigade prepare dinner for just 18 guests.
In Teddy’s words, he arrived here from Peru in 2014, from a relatively small food operation at the WJ Marriott in Cuzco, to join the Marriott here, a sprawling giant, as a chef. Shortly thereafter, in 2015, he participated in the Iron Chef competition, by Island Temptations Magazine. While he won the ultimate Iron Chef title, he also won a friend, fellow-competitor Ever de Pena, at the time a chef at the Manchebo Beach Resort & Spa, an aspiring new talent.
They kept in touch, eventually Ever joined Teddy at the Marriott Complex, and when Teddy retired to open Lima Bistro they continued to talk. Through the pandemic they dreamed and schemed, and last week we were seated in a lovely space, the result of their combined creative vision, and some friends who believed they could, to enjoy a seven course meal with an interesting wine pairing.
Ever’s small kitchen brigade is young and enthusiastic and deserves a column on its own. They are passionate foodies, who similar to Chef Ever worked their way to culinary excellence at several kitchens under notable mentors. They are not just employees, from talking to them, guests understand they feel like stakeholders, determined to contribute to Ever’s success, and by doing so, making a name for themselves.
Chef Jake Kelkboom, worked in star-rated European restaurants and agreed to returned to his native island to join Chef Ever. Chef Chris Webb, worked with Ever for the past ten years at both Manchebo and Marriott. They were joined by sommelier Joseph Virzi and master-mixer Isaak Miranda.
Joseph is an engaging personality, he directs the wine selection and pairing, and is very credible and fun in his role as host-extraordinaire. Isaak concocted the offered virgin and alcoholic aperitivos, made with Gin, Campari and other secret ingredients, both incredibly delicious.
Ever’s restaurant gives diners two options, 4 or 7 course menus. The 4-course dinner is served early in the evening and the 7-course performance, a bit later. The restaurant also includes two lounge areas, and the idea is that just like a prohibition-era speakeasy, the secret place behind the gliding door will always make menu, cocktail and wine changes, with guests given more freedom about their dining choices.
Our seven course experience took off with a Croquette, wrapped in Serrano ham, dusted with Parmesan and crowned by mango gel. I was totally willing to also eat the paper napkin it was perched on.
A Tuna & Melon starter followed in a slightly sweet white miso, topped by a crispy rice cracker, with sprinkled sesame seed and chives. This was an interesting, more delicate twist on the popular tuna and mango combo.
The Amuse was served in a small glass bowl, udon noodles, swimming in warm shiitake broth, escorted by a shimmering, half, deep-yellow quail egg, and scallions. The dish came with a pair of tweezer tongs, to help us wrestle, curl and slurp the noodles.
A short break for bread featured irresistible T2 pan varieties, sour dough accompanied by butter and a thick slice of French brioche, paired with tomato confit.
Now, we were ready for dinner: A Crispy Shrimp appetizer, with diced cucumber, dollops of wasabi topped with rice foam crunchies. The dish was nestled in an aquamarine ceramic dish, custom made for the restaurant by a local artisan. @artsbyrani.com
We got our carbs fix in the form of a Millefeuille, layered potato bake, topped with poached apple medallions, a slice of decadent duck liver, Foie Gras, and hazelnut dust, resting in a rich sauce, flavored with raspberry.
The Palate Cleanser, came before the main event. A cocktail made with imported, rare Peruvian Gin, Amazonian, 41% alcohol, chasing a fruit filled ceramic bowl with marinaded honeydew, melon, soursop, and tapioca pearls, decorated with edible flowers.
Finally, the main event. It feature perfectly cooked Filet Mignon, sous vide, in a rich creamy peppercorn sauce, caramelize onion, grilled asparagus spears and a divine mushrooms puree. I want to have this every day.
Obviously, the Dessert was a killer. It had my name written all over it: Chocolate. Thick and creamy 70% cocoa bean square, not too sweet, sprinkled with coconut, and laced with passion fruit.
The wine pairing:
Charles Clemant Tradition Brut Champagne, delicious bubbly, well-chilled, served with the Croquette and the Tuna & Melon.
La Poussie Sancerre, a classic French Sauvignon Blanc, went well with the Crispy Shrimp and Wasabi, this is my favorite with any seafood.
Art de Vivre Blanc, a surprising 100% Clairette grape, in a natural clay bottle, paying homage to the way they bottles wine centuries ago. A first for me, an elegant, lightly fruity choice, harmonizing with the Millefeuille & Foie Gras.
Jackson Family Wines, a Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec blend, did not retain which of the wineries, but it was a good one, from North Coast, California.
Dalva Moscatel, a distinguished dessert wine from Portugal, we stayed loyal to the red California blend.
The 4 course dinner is $79 per person; Joseph’s wine pairing $55 per person
7 course menu $109 per person; Best ever pairing $79 per person.
Ever restaurant, pronounced A-ver, by Chef Ever de Pena, opens for dinner in March. He says he wants to served familiar food, with his personal twist, at a reasonable price, and hopes to attract locals too.
