Peruvian cuisine has been talked about and written about in the past decade, perhaps because the country’s chefs started travelling and working around the world. Of course chef Nobu’s cook book published in 2001 contributed to the recognition of that kitchen, and the amazing success of his restaurants further introduced Peruvian elements to our culinary dictionary. When I was in London almost two years ago, the must visit list included a restaurant by the name of Lima, became it became the first Peruvian restaurant to win a Michelin star. But I didn’t have to go as far as London or Lima to enjoy the culinary specialties of the land of the Incas, I just had to get invited to a recent birthday party where Iron Chef Teddy Bouroncle orchestrated the spectacular culinary fireworks.
I bet you’re living to know what we had!?
Our hosts served Pisco Sours, a cocktail I am told originated in Lima, invented by an American bartender in the early 1920s. The cocktail combines Pisco liquor, key lime juice, simple syrup, ice, egg white and Angostura bitters. It’s greenish-yellow, with a pretty frothy head, and it tastes like it’s going to be a party.
We started with different kinds of sushi because Peru is recognized world over for its sushi, thanks to a wave of Japanese immigrants who crossed the pacific with their culinary heritage in tow. Example? Chef Nobu, who came to Peru as a kitchen apprentice. But, the sauces make a difference, and I learned that Peruvians love those, especially the peppery Rocoto, that goes with everything. They also sprinkle Ceviche juice on their bite size sushi wonders, infusing them with more zesty flavors.
Two different, equally delicious appetizers followed: The traditional Peruvian ceviche featuring a combination of fish, nicely balanced between the sour and the salty, with the zippy taste of cilantro and marinated onions. The individually served ceviche, in a glass jar, with a sweet potato bottom, was escorted by the crunch of toasted corn!
A medley of boiled Peruvian potatoes followed, a kind of de-constructed Causa, each tuber crowned by a flavorful concoction of lobster and apple or tuna tartar, with matching creamy sauces, each tasting differently, all zesty and alive. Causa is potato salad, but somehow deconstructed and beautifully plated it enjoys an unexpected upgrade.
Then the elegantly set table was loaded with large pots, hot off the stove, no, not clay pots, just heavy-bottomed ones, featuring an incredible lineup of divine dishes.
Lomo Saltado, a hearty steak dish, starring tenderloin, stir-fried with red onions, tomatoes, yellow Peruvian chillies – you’ll find the famous aji Amarillo in almost every dish, soy sauce, vinegar and cilantro mixed with fat French Fries, served on a bed of white rice. The lomo was incredible the next day. Yes, I took a doggie bag.
We also had Aji de Gallina, a spicy stew, made with chicken strips cooked in a creamy yellow/pink sauce made of milk, soaked and practically disintegrated bread, parmesan cheese, aji Amarillo, garlic, and finely milled walnuts. The Aji de Gallina was incredible the next day. Yes, I took a doggie bag.
Lifting the lid off the third pot revealed a rich Lamb Stew, which the chef says was cooked in black beer, Malta, with an irresistible sauce of the usual suspects, red onions, tomato, garlic, aji Amarillo cilantro and cumin.
The usual suspects are the basis of all Peruvian cooking, like the sofrito in Puerto Rico, or the Cajun Holy Trinity in Louisiana, Aderezo in Peru is the point of departure and all dishes take off from that fragrant combination of simmered red onion, garlic and aji Amarillo.
No meal would be complete without beans? Right? We had a giant pot of those, mild and creamy frijol Panamito, cooked with pork ribs for extra flavour. Rest assured the beans were started with a generous portion of Aderezo, laced in aji Amarillo. I confess, the Panamito beans were incredible the next day. Yes, I took a doggie bag
Then there was also a huge seafood stew pot, with shrimp and fish and octopus…
How did we get to dessert? I don’t know, but we did, and I polished my plate as expected. We each got a combo platter with a modified Dolce de Leche called Suspido de Lucuma, my favorite dessert of all times, then a duo symbolizing two rival soccer teams, Mazamorra Morada, a purple corn pudding, with pineapple, cinnamon, cloves and apples, cohabitating with Aroz con Leche Clasico. The Crocante made of egg white and fresh fruit sealed my fate. I was not getting up at 6am the following morning to exercise. And then they served Alfajores, cookies bursting dulce de leche. . . .
It was a memorable evening, a culinary trip from the Amazon rain forests and jungles to the snow capped Andean highlands, then down to the abundant ocean and coastal areas, the recipes, I am told, incorporated many influences, including Pre-Inca and Inca staples and food inspired by the Spanish, Basque, African, Asian and French, Italian and British.