The issue of urban revival for Oranjestad even came up in the Governor’s speech on the occasion of the new parliamentary year 2023-2024, on September 2nd.
Things are moving, quietly, in Oranjestad, real estate is changing hands, and players are formulating plans as to how to breathe new life into town.
A corner of Oranjestad which I thought showed promise was the city block behind the courts with Flor de Oriente at its heart, in a historic location within the Madiki neighborhood.
The de Freitas family, of Portuguese origins, held the bar on Church Street, probably the oldest street in Oranjestad, for many years — since the mid-1930s. It was a typical, no frill rum shop. Belly-up to the counter, order a beer. At some point in 2013, the bar received a facelift in the form of a Heineken-green jacket, and looked updated, with Plaza Juan Portugués in front. The plaza was named after the de Freitas founding family member. Court-employees could saunter in from Plaza Alameda for a bit of happy hour, every Friday.
We were then told the place has been sold to a Dutch-born bar operator, who has/had a famous bar in the Netherlands, De Bonte Koe, the colorful cow, in Leiden. He maintained the retro vibe, with a koffiehuis atmosphere upfront, in the street-side garden café, an antique-filled pub on the side, and an inner patio with flower pots for occasional special events.
I believe the owner of the real estate tired from the difficulty of doing business in Aruba sold it to ‘John’ who tired from the difficulty of doing business in Aruba sold it to ‘Peter.’
Why was business so overwhelmingly difficult? Because the bar has been operated since the mid-1930s as a F&B outlet without proper permits. The old building wasn’t up to code, and permits were never filed because construction needed to happen before any attempts could be made, to register the business.
This week both the health authorities and the Police came around and closed Flor de Oriente, sent everyone packing — they ran out of time and patience.
And I thought that this city block with Nusa, a popular Indonesian eatery, The HardGrooves Jazz Café, the Beer Garden, Flor de Oriente and the Dominican Domino Café, could find synergy and co-exist, proving that Oranjestad has a future.
When I started asking questions, I discovered that not all is well in paradise. The street is blessed with about 20 homeless, the same ones that drove Panaderia Moderna out of its location of 87 years. Parking is problematic. The rents are exorbitant and the landlord wouldn’t make the investments required to bring the antiquated place up to speed. Also, the Dominicans, knocking their domino tiles, are too loud.
I checked on Trip Advisor. Visitors who made it to Madiki called it authentic and special — they got it, and liked it. But not many did.
I am sorry to see the lost investment. The place was special.
